Pond Troubleshooting

Compare water loss with the feature running and stopped. Sun, wind, exposed water, splashing, and autofill operation all affect what you observe; there is no single evaporation allowance for every pond. Before an overnight test, plan appropriate aeration for fish, check accessible liner edges, allow returning water to settle, and turn off the autofill. Mark and photograph the starting level, then compare the next morning. Some evaporation still occurs overnight. Call for advice before testing if fish are struggling, freezing is possible, or the pond is rapidly draining. A basin that holds water when the pump is off points toward the running feature or operating plumbing, but is not proof of a leak. Low edges, redirected flow, misting, and wicking also deserve inspection. [Read our full pond leak versus evaporation guide](/blog/maintenance-and-care/pond-leak-or-evaporation-utah) for the test, interpreting results, and requesting help.

Sick fish often indicate water quality problems. **Test water immediately for:** - Ammonia (should be 0) - Nitrite (should be 0) - pH (6.5-8.5 for koi) - Oxygen levels **Common symptoms:** - Gasping at surface = low oxygen - Flashing/scratching = parasites - White spots = ich (treat immediately) - Red streaks = bacterial infection - Isolation = stress or illness **When to call a professional:** - Multiple fish affected - Rapid deaths - Unknown cause after testing